From the beach to downtown to Edgewater, Miami's vibrant food scene is popping up all over town. Here, the city's leading food connoisseurs spotlight the restaurants and dishes that are currently the best in the city.
Positively Polenta
Creamy polenta at Macchialina Taverna Rustica brings old-world Italian to a quiet part of the Beach.
BY LEE BRIAN SCHRAGER
The chef making the sausage ragu to accompany his polenta.
Lower Alton Road has long been the bastion of locals. It’s away from the flash, which is part of its subdued beach-town charm, and has a neighborhood feel deserving of some seriously delicious comfort food. While my deep-seated love for fried chicken is no secret, Italian fare is my go-to cuisine for a night out. When I saw Macchialina Taverna Rustica open two years ago in its unassuming spot at Eighth and Alton, I hoped it was the perfect match, and once I ate there I knew that it was going to be a hit, especially among us locals.
The concept is genius (and deceptively simple)—Italian food, tapas style. Whatever preconditioned thoughts you may have about ordering a dish or two at an Italian place and then immediately retreating to your couch, push them out of your head. I’ve never been able to leave Macchialina without ordering at least five or six dishes. And there are some real winners to choose from: The cacciucco alla livornese, chef-owner Michael Pirolo’s favorite, is a seafood stew, and the rustic charcuterie board is another standout. But my personal favorite is Pirolo’s polenta.
Polenta is spread on a board for a group order as a “polenta board.”
Currently reigning as the Miami Herald’s most-starred working chef, Pirolo has certainly earned his stripes, after cooking with and learning from greats such as Scott Conant, Christopher Lee, and Alfred Portale. His creamy polenta is the Italian equivalent of my mother’s matzo ball soup—earthy, unfussy, and endlessly comforting. I’ve tried a few different variations since the restaurant opened (most recently with sausage ragu and cipollini), but my favorite has to be the chef’s version with mushroom ragu (available on request). Each time, chef Pirolo manages to perfectly extract the natural sweetness of the savory ingredients, leaving your taste buds craving a bottomless portion. “The trick to making our polenta is in its cook time,” says Pirolo. “It takes three hours. Every day we put our polenta on the stove like clockwork—when we run out, we run out.” It’s the type of execution you have to earn, and he has. Miami’s more delicious for it. 820 Alton Road, Miami Beach, 305-534-2124
High on the Hog
Oak Tavern’s suckling pig with maque choux and cheddar grits is an unparalleled flavor combination.
BY LEE KLEIN
Chef David Bracha at his rustic Oak Tavern in the Design District.
Just about every dining neighborhood in our city should boast a wall splashed with the graffiti "David Bracha cooked here!" Since the late 1980s, the acclaimed chef has operated restaurants in South Beach, South Miami, Coral Gables, downtown Miami (namely the landmark The River Seafood & Oyster Bar), and most recently, the Design District, home to his Oak Tavern.
The contemporary cuisine at Oak Tavern has roots in traditional American cooking that run as deep as those of the enormous namesake tree shading the outdoor patio. And no dish at this convivial 140-seat establishment better showcases Bracha’s knack for tweaking rustic sensibilities than his suckling pig with maque choux and cheddar grits.
Suckling pig being cooked in the caja china.
The dish is informed by the Big Easy flavors of New Orleans, but the process is somewhat involved. It begins by sourcing a fresh suckling pig from Mary’s Ranch, near Okeechobee. “We take the whole animal, which is around 25 to 30 pounds,” explains Bracha, “and cook it [in a] caja china, which is fantastic.”
That’s just the start. Once the pig has been roasted and cooled, the skin is peeled off, the pork gets picked from the bone, and the meat is tautly rolled back into the skin. The porcine cylinder is next vacuum-packed and simmered sousvide for an hour. Then it is chilled. Finally, when a customer orders it, “We hack off a piece and pan-roast it in its own fat.”
Oak Tavern’s suckling pig, served with creamy cheese grits, maque choux (a traditional Southern dish of corn and tomato stew), pickled okra, and pea shoots for garnish.
The result is a bulging barrel of inconceivably succulent pork girdled by a thin wisp of crackly skin. Beneath the meat are creamy heirloom grits boosted with Beecher’s sharp New York cheddar cheese and maque choux, a sassy southern Louisiana tangle of corn, tomatoes, and hot chili pepper sauced with stock culled from the suckling bones. Crunchy stars of Homestead okra crown this down-home dish that, one suspects, would be considered audaciously delicious in any neighborhood. 35 NE 40th St., Miami, 786-391-1818
Winning Cup
Basil Park, tucked into Sunny Isles Beach, plates a delicious example of where conscious cuisine is heading with its grass-fed beef lettuce cups.
BY INGRID HOFFMANN
Chef Tim Andriola in the open kitchen at Basil Park.
Sunny Isles Beach is known for lots of things, but not necessarily forward-leaning cuisine. That’s all changed with the recent opening of Tim Andriola’s Basil Park. Andriola is the chef from neighboring Italian Timo Restaurant & Bar, but for his new spot, his direction shifted to a “clean food” philosophy, with dense nutrients and earth-friendly sourcing. The concept came about after Andriola took a health and nutrition course from nutritional guru Vaughn Gray, and the resulting eatery feels more hip San Francisco beach house than Miami with its beautiful, natural pale butcher-block wood tables and open kitchen.
Fresno chilies simmering with garlic and vinegar for the homemade sriracha.
“We avoid using any ingredients that are processed and opt for substitutions that are whole in nature,” says Andriola. “We use coconut palm sugar, dates, and brown rice syrup to give our desserts sweetness. We only use intact grains and grass-fed meat, and natural pasture-raised chicken void of hormones, antibiotics, and GMO feed.” A partner in the restaurant is organic farmer Tamer Harpke from Harpke Family Farm in Dania Beach, which provides piquant lovelies such as microgreens, mizuna, bok choy, lacinato kale, purple dragon carrots, arugula, and chioggia beets.
Grass-fed skirt steak lettuce cups with wild-mushroom confit. A topping of sriracha adds an extra kick.
Now, I loved everything on the menu, but if I had to call out one dish, it would be the grass-fed skirt steak lettuce cups. First, chef Andriola marinates the beef in organic tamari (gluten-free soy) and eventually sears it on a Spanish-style plancha grill. The iceberg lettuce cup holds a wild-mushroom confit, made by covering the mushrooms in coconut oil and roasting them in a 300-degree oven for half an hour, then mixing in garlic, ginger, scallion, tamari, lime, and cilantro. The dish is topped with an award-winning homemade sriracha sauce concocted with Fresno chilies, garlic, vinegar, brown-rice syrup, and salt. The end result has an intense beef flavor layered with the earthy mushrooms, the pop of the sriracha, and the crisp, cool shell of the lettuce. To me, Basil Park is a shining star, the perfect example of how healthy food can also be deliciously exciting food, all the while treating our bodies and Mother Earth kindly. 17608 Collins Ave., Sunny Isles Beach, 305-705-0004
Not-So-Austere Monk
Mignonette’s monkfish with smoked trout roe and lobster sauce adds a bit of fancy to Edgewater.
BY DAVID ROSENDORF
At Mignonette in Edgewater, chef Daniel Serfer’s food finds balance between fancy and simple.
Despite the crowds that regularly flock to the Adrienne Arsht Center for the Performing Arts, Miami’s Edgewater neighborhood is not exactly a dining mecca. The nearby corner of 18th Street and NE Second Avenue may be best known for two things: that greasiest of greasy spoons, the S&S Diner, and the City of Miami Cemetery across the street. But now it can be recognized for something else—some of the best oysters and seafood in town.
Mignonette is the unholy love child of chef Daniel Serfer (a Chef Allen’s alum who owns comfort food haven Blue Collar) and lawyer/food blogger/ Twitter comedian Ryan Roman (who can now add another slash for “restaurateur”). As the name implies, raw oysters get center stage, but Mignonette devotes significant menu space (and talent) to cooked items, too. Entrées are split between “plain” (for “sauce on the side” types) and “fancy.”
The humble monkfish is deglazed with brandy.
It’s in the fancy section that you’ll find a dish that really encapsulates what I love about Mignonette: its monkfish with smoked trout roe, lobster sauce, and broccolini. Monkfish is an unheralded and ugly fish, known as “poor man’s lobster” because its firm, almost bouncy texture is similar to that of the more luxurious crustacean. The two meet when the meaty fish is paired with a translucent amber, deeply flavored lobster jus made in the fashion of an old-school consommé. A generous dollop of smoked trout roe adds a great briny pop. It’s served over steamed broccolini to make sure you get your veggies, too.
Mignonette’s monkfish with smoked trout roe and lobster sauce, served atop a bed of broccolini.
“We have a very casual fish like the monk, but we church it up and make it fancy with the caviar and the lobster consommé,” says Serfer. “As a younger cook, I would read about guys like Marco Pierre White, and they would say stuff about just keeping it super simple. And since I was young and dumb, I would roll my eyes. I understand now what they were talking about.” Mignonette shows you can be fancy without being fussy, and simple without being boring. This is food I could eat every day. 210 NE 18th St., Miami, 305-374-4635
On Guard
Downtown goes uptown with the fiocchetti di pera at Touché.
BY CARLA TORRES
Chef Carla Pellegrino plates her fiocchetti di pera at Touché.
Perched above a landscape of clubs downtown, Touché stands out like a white pearl in a murky ocean. It’s on the third floor of the building that houses E11even, Miami’s first and only 24/7 nightclub and cabaret, and its all-glass façade serves up direct views of neighboring megaclub Space. Yet the Italian restaurant turns out a sumptuous bowl of pasta worthy of rural Italy. Chef Carla Pellegrino’s fiocchetti di pera in a sauce of butter, sage, and dried cranberries is suitable to convert any red sauce devotee like myself.
The ricotta and Bartlett pear-filled pasta “purses,” as Pellegrino likes to call them.
Pellegrino handled her first pan at the age of 10. “We were poor, so my mother would make me skip school to cook all night long for her catering company,” says the Top Chef season 10 contestant, who is also a VIP member of the James Beard Foundation and a Women in Food honoree. As she hustles through the open kitchen, prepping for the evening, she and her crew mix and knead the fiocchetti’s dough, adding dollops of the ricotta and Bartlett pear filling before it’s scrunched into a bow, or purse, as Pellegrino calls it. To me, it looks more like a candy waiting to be unwrapped.
The finished dish, topped with sage and dried cranberry butter sauce.
As the pasta cooks, butter and extra-virgin olive oil are brought to a simmer with sage sprigs and dried cranberries, adding a subtle sweet finish. Before the butter browns, Pellegrino throws in a handful of bread crumbs. The sauce foams within minutes, and you can taste the sage in the air. Says the chef, “That means it’s ready for the pasta.”
“No cheese on top,” says Pellegrino as she sets a bowl of the finished product down on the white tablecloth. I unwrap the pasta “candies,” and the rasp and fried-like texture of the sage brushes my tongue. The nimble gravy is buttery, salty, creamy, cheesy, and then tart with the cranberries—perfect for the pear. Pellegrino was right; cheese would have voided the crust of the bread crumbs. Like its chef, the dish is a dexterous representation of Touché and the future of downtown Miami. 15 NE 11th St., Miami, 305-358-9848