The Design District, Midtown, and Wynwood proffer more than just art—here’s what's new and noteworthy in food since last year's Art Basel.
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Wagyu smoked gouda croquettes at Shikany.
It’s that time of the year when the world’s erudite and moneyed swoop into town to relish in the cultural phenomenon that is Art Basel Miami Beach. While the focus is primarily on the art, everyone has to eat. To that end, snagging a seat at Design District mainstays such as Michael’s Genuine Food & Drink, MC Kitchen, or Mandolin Aegean Bistro will be like trying to get into one of Art Basel’s many invite-only soirées—impossible.
All hope is not lost, however. Since last year’s fair, a baker has risen in the rankings, the craft beer scene has exploded, and degustation menus (multicourse tastings of small bites of a chef’s signature dishes that often play into a diner’s senses) have become a weekly happening. Here, we take a look at what’s new in food on the artsy blocks from Wynwood to the Design District.
Quick-N-Easy
MMMM
Located in the former Lester’s space, Mmmm shows off its creative f lair before you even get inside with a banana leaf-painted façade and the iconic Martinique wallpaper that is the same as the one adorning the Fountain Coffee Room at The Beverly Hills Hotel. Chef Alan McLennan uses a version of Poilâne sourdough (from the eponymous Parisian bakery) on his tartines. Want something light? Try the Shanghai chicken salad with napa cabbage, peanuts, crisp wontons, and ginger hoisin dressing. 2519 NW Second Ave., Miami, 786-703-3409
Zak the Baker
In between gallery and tent hopping, make sure to drop by Zak the Baker, a bakery-cum-café. They make the bread right there, and top it with ingredients such as beets and feta, avocado and ricotta, or Paradise Farms honey butter. Zak Stern and his pastry chefs and bakers will be working around the clock, staying open late during Art Basel. “It’s possible that we’ll do 24-hour days for that week,” says Stern. “We’re bulking up to make sure we can handle the swarms of people.” 405 NW 26th St., Miami, 786-280-0327
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Herbed cream cheese toast with cucumber and radish on house-made bread at Zak the Baker.
Casual
Kush
Amid all of Wynwood’s new breweries, Kush is pouring plenty of the town’s best craft beers in the city. Its ballyhooed burgers include the Frita, with guava jelly, melted Gruyère, and bacon; and the Johnny Utah, with pastrami, diced onion, and cheddar. New additions include Florida alligator bites and Bahamian conch salad. “Art Basel is going to be interesting,” says owner Matt Kuscher. “We are definitely going to have to turn people away.” Luckily, there might just be a secret botanica where you can wait next door (or so we’re told). 2003 N. Miami Ave., Miami, 305-576-4500
Salumeria 104
Not exactly new, Salumeria 104 has been Midtown’s go-to trattoria since three Art Basels ago. Don’t let the faux hams hanging from the ceiling fool you—chef Angelo Masarin brings the Italian authenticity. Standouts include the vitello tonnato (discs of thinly sliced roasted veal doused in a creamy tuna sauce and fried capers) and the San Daniele prosciutto. Masarin also whips up his grandmother’s braised rabbit recipe with artichokes and Taggiasca olives. 3451 NE First Ave., Miami, 305-424-9588
SuViche
You might be drawn to SuViche because of the new mural, but you’ll stay for the Japanese/Peruvian fusion. Try the La Cruda Verdad roll (fresh salmon, mango, and avocado topped with ceviche-style marinated white fish) or the lomo saltado spring rolls. “Basel is madness; catch a table if you can,” says owner Sebastian Stahl. For the best seat in the house, head out to the patio and grab a swing next to the lounge tables designed by local artist Daniel Fila. 2751 N. Miami Ave., Miami, 305-501-5010
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Fancy
R House
At R House, not only can you bid on art from the integrated gallery while you slurp on a moqueca (a traditional Brazilian seafood stew), but owner and chef Rocco Carulli will cook it and personally deliver it. His past experience as a chef in the summers and server in the winters prepared him well for his first solo endeavor, which fuses music from local DJs with internationally recognized artists and globally inspired cuisine. “We don’t want to turn anyone away during Basel,” he says. “We’re going to take it to the limit.” 2727 NW Second Ave., Miami, 305-576-0201
Shikany
After spending time in the kitchens of Gramercy Tavern and Le Bernardin, Michael Shikany has brought his talents to Wynwood, where he plates molecular-style degustation menus and whimsical à la carte offerings with cocktails to match. Think nori macarons with ginger spiced tuna tartare, or scallops and sweetbreads served alongside vanilla cotton candy. For the week of Basel, Shikany is making a special exception to open for lunch service and stay open straight through dinner. 251 NW 25th St., Miami, 305-573-0690