As high-end fashion houses target a luxury sector increasingly concerned with sustainability, Loro Piana is decidedly—and beautifully—on course.
The stalk of the lotus flower produces a strong and lightweight fiber that is harvested and extracted by hand.
We’ve just set sail off the British Virgin Islands with the official Loro Piana race crew during the 2014 Loro Piana Caribbean Superyacht Regatta & Rendezvous. Pier Luigi Loro Piana, vice chairman of the eponymous Italian textile and luxury goods brand, and Matthieu Brisset, Loro Piana’s new CEO from LVMH, huddle near the massive helm, strategizing with top sailors from around the globe. Dressed as one of the crew, at age 63, Pier Luigi grins. “Jazz and sailing are my passions,” he says, “besides wool and cashmere.”
Discussing his decision to sell a majority of his family business to LVMH—the European luxury conglomerate acquired an 80 percent stake in Loro Piana in July 2013 for 2 billion euros (about $2.6 billion USD)—Pier Luigi, who remains hands-on, is quick to smile. He feels his company is tacking in the right direction.
And though he may sail the largest yachts in the ocean, he can also be found in a dinghy scouring the far reaches of the earth for the kinds of exquisite textiles his customers associate with his brand. His latest gem, the fiber of the lotus flower, is a frontrunner in the company’s evolving commitment toward sustainable luxury—a buzzword among top-tier brands vying for the attention of a discerning clientele, one that increasingly prioritizes social conscience.
According to a recent study published by the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO), luxury brands may lose business if they fail to emphasize corporate and social responsibility. Jonathan Kendall, CIBJO’s president of marketing and education, notes, “Corporate responsibility will be directly linked to a luxury company’s profitability in the future.” The 2013 Cone Communications/Echo Global Study on CSR found that nine out of 10 global consumers want companies to exceed minimum standards required by law to operate responsibly.
“We are looking for quality—that strategy will never change,” Pier Luigi explains, “but with the mentality to respect the environment in how we produce and manufacture. This is very important—to do less damage to this world.”
“Sometimes, perfection is still guaranteed by the fine mending made by hand,” says Pier Luigi Loro Piana.
THE CALL OF CRAFTSMANSHIP
Established in 1924 by Pietro Loro Piana—with origins dating back to 1812 with the vision of Pier Luigi’s great-grandfather Giacomo Loro Piana—the company was the first to brand and label a textile during the late 1800s.
“We were known for making good, thick, woolen coats—and high-quality fabric, particularly for men,” Pier Luigi explains. “After WWII, [my father] made a strategic change, with products for both men and women.” Pier Luigi and his late brother, Sergio, took over in the 1970s and began exporting fabrics, and today, the Italian house is the world’s largest cashmere manufacturer and the biggest single purchaser of the globe’s finest wools, with 150 retail outlets, 16 of them in the United States, including one in Bal Harbour.
Unlike brands that outsource steps in production, Loro Piana’s sheep-to-shop production allows for tight quality control. At its group headquarters in Corso Rolandi, Italy, one will find artists with tweezers working over swaths of cashmere, while huge, high-tech machines support a large-scale, modern-day operation as the sixth-generation Italian brand remains rooted in its quest for high-quality craftsmanship. “In the ’80s, we invested in a lot of new technology,” Pier Luigi says, “but the machinery can do nothing without people who can manage it and sometimes perfection is still guaranteed by the fine mending made by hand.”
GLOBAL GOODS, ANCIENT GOODS
Traveling with a small circle of two to three trusted researchers, Pier Luigi frequently leads international trips to uncover new materials. “It’s important that somebody who wants to judge new products has a deep knowledge of the raw material,” he explains.
Much of the fabric used for the brand’s most coveted pieces comes from the vicuña, a South American relative of the llama. Only 12.5 to 13 microns thick, vicuña fibers are considered the finest that can be legally culled from an adult animal; the resulting wool is incomparable in softness and quality. Due to poaching, at one point only 5,000 vicuña remained. Loro Piana began working with local governments to safeguard the animal in the 1980s, and in 2008, it established the nature reserve Dr. Franco Loro Piana Reserva (named after the founder’s nephew). Today, the vicuña head count is approximately 180,000 and Loro Piana is the top producer of vicuña goods.
But it is an ancient, natural fiber once used for hand-crafted monks’ garments and sacred to the Buddha that is Pier Luigi’s latest preoccupation—and with good reason. “An old friend of mine, Choichiro Motoyama, gave me a piece of fabric made in Myanmar. He said, ‘This is from the lotus flower.’ I touched it, and it was different than anything else; it looks like raw silk, has the shine of a linen, but it’s soft.” Immediately smitten, Pier Luigi decided to fasttrack production and in 2010 contracted the local community to produce the lotus-flower fiber.
“This fabric is the greenest textile fabric of the world,” he says. “There is no electricity involved, no engine that works on the machinery, nothing.” The stems of the aquatic plant produce an extremely fine raw material akin to linen and raw silk. But they have to be hand-worked on wooden looms; from the moment the flowers are de-stemmed, the filaments must be extracted within 24 hours or the material is no longer usable. It takes 6,500 stems to obtain a little over four yards of the light-as-air, breathable yarn needed for a single cut length of a blazer. The production supports an ancient art and economy in jeopardy. “We will not lose this tradition, which was ready to die,” Pier Luigi says.
Given this hands-on approach, a limited number of blazers are produced each year. Packaged in a beautiful, handcrafted lacquer box, the Lotus Flower jacket—available only in its natural ecru color—is custom priced, and limited-cut lengths are offered for made-to-order blazers.
Managers and office staff of Loro Piana predecessor Fratelli Lora and Company Woollen Mill, in Valsesia, in northern Italy, in the late 1800s. bottom: Loro Piana’s Palm Beach boutique.
A NEW LEVEL OF LUXURY
To some, the merger of Loro Piana with LVMH, which also owns prestigious brands such as Veuve Clicquot, TAG Heuer, Dom Pérignon, Céline, Loewe, and Givenchy, was a surprising move. For Pier Luigi, however, it made perfect sense. “The group has the know-how, the system, management, and the potential to continue and develop the strategy Loro Piana already put in place,” he says. “That’s why we selected LVMH for the future of the company.” LVMH is also a committed advocate of environmental protection and a member of the United Nations Global Compact, which requires its signatories to apply and promote 10 principles in the fields of human rights, labor, and the environment.
“Quality is the prime character of everything we do,” Pier Luigi notes. “We’ve built a consciousness that high quality is related to natural fibers.” By quality, he refers to unparalleled texture, color, refinement—and the avoidance of a detrimental effect on the environment. “If you put a jacket of wool under the dirt, it will die. The nylon jacket never dies.” Bal Harbour Shops, 9700 Collins Ave., 305-867-1680; 245 Worth Ave., Palm Beach, 561-833-7016